I went to the city of warm heart and black lungs. Ostrava - former rich and half-forgotten queen of mines and heavy industry. It's a bit of a cultural shock - industrial and functionalist architecture everywhere. But it's a positive shock. Ostrava has got a character. And attitude. Although it may not be everyone's cup of tea. Actually no tea here. It is more of a strong black coffee. And at places it dazzles like a black pearl in the dust.